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Track & Trials Discussion Discuss the Reno SCCA Track Program, including Track Trials, Club Trials, and PDX events |
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#1 |
Chief of Solo Registration
Real Name: Van
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 166
Car: old subaru
Class: TSU
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I'm thinking i need...
tire pressure gauge- do I run autox pressures? brake pads- just in case I destroy my current pads? torque wrench-? gallon of coolant-? water sprayer for intercooler-do I need it? small bag of metric tools lunch box w/ lots of water,food, and a couple of beers for when I'm done. What else do I need? Anyone have a trackday checklist? |
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#2 |
Assistant Regional Executive & Chief Instructor
Real Name: Dean Benz
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 827
Car: '04 Subaru WRX STI
Class: TSM
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Hot track pressures = Warm/hot Autocross pressures. Set after each session. First session while learning track is probably OK at street pressures.
EDIT: Here is a compiled list from all the good ideas in this thread. This is a Summer at RFR list, not a winter at Laguna Seca list! Don't get scared by this list!!! You do not need all this stuff, especially the car stuff as new drivers will seldom push their cars very hard and others will have and most are willing to lend tools/supplies for a price. ![]() For people: "People Box" Something to put your STUFF in that won't blow away and waterproof isn't a bad idea! Sun goop Long Pants Long Sleeve Shirt (These are mandatory!!! You will not be allowed on track without them!) Hat Helmet (SNELL M1995 or better) [Some loaners may be available. Contact registrar] Driving Shoes. Thinner non-slip soles are better. Driving Gloves (if you prefer them) Neck Cooler (REI) or Thin towel to wet down and put on the back of your neck to cool down. Waterproof/windproof shell with hood. It blows and may thunderstorm! Change of clothes, socks/shoes for driving home or if caught in T-storm. Cooler Food (Lunch, and quick energy snacks) Beverages 1 Gal at least! (Sport, energy, water[often provided but be safe bring some of your own]) (Open Alcohol is not permitted until after the course is closed at the end of the day!!!) Folding chair Wind Proof Shade of some form if you have it. Focus on wind proof!!! It blows while you are on course and you won't be there to fold it up. Something to write notes on and with if you want to record and later remember any readings like tire pressures/temps, track peculiarities; learnings; or someone's phone number ![]() For Stuff: A box or bag to put all the stuff you pull out before tech. inspection in. (driver side floor mat, radar detectors, sub boxes, iPods, CDs, bowling balls, etc. Leave the big stuff at home) Windproof & waterproof suggested. For car: Before the event, check everything mechanical, rubber and liquid or have a mechanic do it! Last thing you want it to run out of brake pads, cord a tire, etc... CAR NUMBERS and/or Blue tape. All vehicles are required to have Unique per run group numbers! Cheap magnetic numbers may blow off at track speeds! "Car Box" to hold all this crap and easily be pulled in/out of car. Water/windproof... Many just leave this packed with cheap tools, etc. refilling only as used. GAS!!! Fill the tank before the event and check before/after each run group. You will use it faster than you can imagine. Some cars will go through a tank in 2 20 minute run groups. Tire pressure gauge Air pump Pyrometer Wheel chock or block of wood to keep car from rolling (e-Brake use not recommended.) Jack if you think you might want to rotate tires. Jack stands Spare Brake pads. If you have < 50% we suggest swapping before event, you can always put them back in after. Oil Water (Distilled for radiator) Brake Fluid Power Steering fluid Funnel Rags Glass Cleaner Paper towels Brake cleaner Zip ties Duct tape Power inverter(If you bring 120v tools) Soldering iron/Solder Electrical tape Aluminum tape Hose clamps of various sizes Rubber hose/fuel line Known failure parts/gaskets you or your type of car commonly break/blow
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Brake early, you can always brake less. if you brake late, you can't brake MORE! ![]() Last edited by Dean; 04-02-2012 at 06:27 AM. |
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#3 |
Ridge Motorsports Park
Real Name: Tom
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: outer space
Posts: 499
Car: 1987 MR2 MK1.5 / 1994 Spec Miata
Class: TT-B/ITE TT-C/SM
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![]() Last edited by tom1977; 02-09-2011 at 09:24 AM. |
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#4 |
Director
Real Name: Don Smith
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 1,027
Car: 97 Miata
Class: #66 W/6 T5
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And also, each PDX car should have numbers on them, so throw in a roll of tape or something if you don't have an autocross numbers set.
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#5 | |
Webmaster
Real Name: Scott Perry
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,152
Car: 2002 WRX / 1996 Miata
Class: TT-A / CT-C
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You'll want to run ~6psi below your target pressure when the tires are cold. A track session puts on about 6-8psi. Like Dean said, check them as soon as you come off track. If you're low enough on brake pads to think you might need to swap them... just swap them before the event. Thick pads work better and wear slower than thin pads, as they're larger heat sinks. You can swap back later to finish off the thin pads on the street where you're not going to see the high temps. Bring a torque wrench if you've got one. Best to be able to check the lugs w/o having to rely on someone else. You can be the savior to the guys that show up without one. ![]() I'd suggest bringing a gallon or two of distilled water rather than coolant. If you're puking up coolant, having water to rinse things clean as well as top-off the coolant system is more useful than just having expensive coolant you're just going to puke up the next time the car overheats. Water in general is better than coolant anyway for how well it works, with the exception of the conditioners and resistance to freezing, both of which aren't going to be a concern at the track. You probably don't need to bring out the water sprayer. Sure, the car is going to be hot hot hot when you come off course, but there's plenty of time for it to cool off in between sessions. The short turn around times that autocrosses have between runs don't exist at a PDX. A sprayer is only useful if you need to cool the car off quickly in order to work on something under the hood or on the brakes. Finally, I'd add in a small bag of repair supplies: zip ties, duct tape, electrical tape, aluminum tape, various sized hose clamps, rubber hose/fuel line, any exhaust gaskets you commonly blow (for me, that used to be the header-uppipe gasket), some spare wire and cheapo soldering iron/solder, can of brake cleaner, can of glass cleaner, paper towels, and a few shop rags. Not to mention a quart or two of oil, and a bottle of power steering fluid, and a funnel. Also brake fluid if you might need to bleed them after swapping pads. At least, that (plus the other stuff you already mentioned) is what made up the contents of my pit box that I used to haul around for time trials events. Probably a bit over-kill for PDX... but there you go. And as far as tools... I've found that I rarely need stuff like endwrenches or sockets (though I did pack a limited set of both). Fixes at the track tend to be related to scissors, pliers, cutters, and vice-grips. Certainly though, bring any specialized tools needed for adjusting/tightening suspension parts or replacing brake pads. Also, just for reference to the other folks that might read this thread: Van's car is pretty heavily modified, so there's a much higher chance that he'll have some "bolts to tighten" during the day. Folks with unmodified cars can get away without all the tools/spares as it's very unlikely that they'll need to fix anything... and even then, the folks like Van (or me for that matter) that are coming more prepared will be able to help you out.
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Slow cars make faster drivers... at least that's what I'm telling myself. Last edited by sperry; 07-15-2010 at 02:19 PM. |
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#6 |
Street Modified
Real Name: Debbie Kerswill
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 557
Car: Mazda
Class: CS
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Wow Scott, that's a pretty good list.
Something to write notes on if you want to record and later remember any readings like tire pressures/temps, track peculiarities; learnings; or someone's phone number ![]() And for some impractical stuff that might help with comfort: An energy drink for the end of the day. Because if you run every single session, you are probably going to be tired by 5pm. Change of socks/shoes for driving home. (For those not using track driving shoes.) Hat. (oops, Dean already said HAT.) Thin towel to wet down and put on the back of your neck to cool down.
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#7 |
Street Modified
Real Name: Debbie Kerswill
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 557
Car: Mazda
Class: CS
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+ tire chock or piece of wood to keep your car from rolling when you park it (without using the parking brake).
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#8 |
Assistant Regional Executive & Chief Instructor
Real Name: Dean Benz
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 827
Car: '04 Subaru WRX STI
Class: TSM
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Ah, especially for the upper paddock!!! Good call.
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Brake early, you can always brake less. if you brake late, you can't brake MORE! ![]() |
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#9 |
Chief of Solo Registration
Real Name: Van
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 166
Car: old subaru
Class: TSU
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Thanks everyone for the input, I've got a bag and a box full of junk ready for Saturday.
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#10 |
Ridge Motorsports Park
Real Name: Tom
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: outer space
Posts: 499
Car: 1987 MR2 MK1.5 / 1994 Spec Miata
Class: TT-B/ITE TT-C/SM
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^ if there is anything you need now that you dont have, just ask. I am loading my truck up tomorrow afternoon with everything except what I might need...as always....
![]() ________ chevrolet corvair engine specifications Last edited by tom1977; 02-09-2011 at 09:24 AM. |
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#11 |
Regional Executive
Real Name: Scott Knauf
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Coldsprings
Posts: 323
Car: Formula 440-BMW M3-Datsun 510-Spec Miata
Class: All of them
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cool if you folks bring all that stuff all i have to remember is to wear pants
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#12 |
Chief of Solo Registration
Real Name: Van
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 166
Car: old subaru
Class: TSU
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#13 |
Assistant Regional Executive & Chief Instructor
Real Name: Dean Benz
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 827
Car: '04 Subaru WRX STI
Class: TSM
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Bump. I compiled the list in post #2. Did I miss anything?
Should I make this this a sticky with maybe a little editing?
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Brake early, you can always brake less. if you brake late, you can't brake MORE! ![]() |
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#14 |
Street Modified
Real Name: Debbie Kerswill
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 557
Car: Mazda
Class: CS
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Does RFR have pump fuel? (Wasn't sure if it was reactivated.)
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#15 |
Street Prepared
Real Name: Bill Hetzel
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 444
Car: Corvette, Formula Ford
Class: Formula Ford
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#16 |
Assistant Regional Executive & Chief Instructor
Real Name: Dean Benz
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 827
Car: '04 Subaru WRX STI
Class: TSM
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Added.
__________________
Brake early, you can always brake less. if you brake late, you can't brake MORE! ![]() |
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#17 |
Ridge Motorsports Park
Real Name: Tom
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: outer space
Posts: 499
Car: 1987 MR2 MK1.5 / 1994 Spec Miata
Class: TT-B/ITE TT-C/SM
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![]() Last edited by tom1977; 02-09-2011 at 09:25 AM. |
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#18 |
Chief of Solo Waivers
Real Name: Cody Farrell
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 514
Car: Yellow WRX Wagon
Class: TESP
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What are you going to do with one jack stand.
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#19 |
Assistant Regional Executive & Chief Instructor
Real Name: Dean Benz
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 827
Car: '04 Subaru WRX STI
Class: TSM
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I use 1 jack stand all the time! Any time a body part is going under the car, it goes on a stand even if the jack is still in place. Very common working on 1 corner of the car.
I'll make it plural though.
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Brake early, you can always brake less. if you brake late, you can't brake MORE! ![]() |
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#20 |
Ridge Motorsports Park
Real Name: Tom
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: outer space
Posts: 499
Car: 1987 MR2 MK1.5 / 1994 Spec Miata
Class: TT-B/ITE TT-C/SM
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![]() Last edited by tom1977; 02-09-2011 at 09:25 AM. |
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#21 |
Assistant Regional Executive & Chief Instructor
Real Name: Dean Benz
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 827
Car: '04 Subaru WRX STI
Class: TSM
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I thought about that, but if you are reading this list, you don't have one yet.
And try to tell everyone to put it in their glove compartment so it is most likely to be with them at each event. Taking it in the house just ensures it will never make it back to the track. ![]()
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Brake early, you can always brake less. if you brake late, you can't brake MORE! ![]() |
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#22 |
R.I.P.
Real Name: Jim Gandy
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 179
Car:
Class:
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A word of caution regarding the post up there that talked about bringing a set of brake pads. IMO, NEVER GO ON A TRACK WITH PADS THAT HAVEN'T BEEN PROPERLY BEDDED! Unbedded pads can do all kinds of nasty things under severe conditions -- they can "liquify" at the pad-disk interface, they can sinter and turn to powder, the pad material can separate from the backing plate -- any of which will put you in the wall.
How do you bed pads? Check the maker's instructions first. If that's no help, a good basic procedure is to install the pads, then drive about four blocks at, say, 30 mph in second gear with your left foot moderately heavy on brake pedal. The idea is to get them really hot, stinky hot -- you'll smell them. Then, let them sit overnight. This is by no means the final word on the subject -- anybody have specifics to share? |
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#23 |
Chief of Solo Waivers
Real Name: Cody Farrell
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 514
Car: Yellow WRX Wagon
Class: TESP
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I always refer to Stoptech articles when the pad manufacturer doesn't give specific bed in procedures.
FAQ: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml At the bottom of that article there are links to 3 other articles that get into more specific things. |
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#24 | |
Street Modified
Real Name: Kevin McDaniel
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 892
Car: 1993 Impreza wagon
Class: 19 FP
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#25 | |
Street Prepared
Real Name: Bill Hetzel
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Reno
Posts: 444
Car: Corvette, Formula Ford
Class: Formula Ford
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The links for either street or performance bed in are the ones to follow. And if yoy drive normally on the street (light to moderate brake use), it's a good idea to rebed the pads the day before an event. |
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